Introduction:
Here’s a short tour on my memory lane. I am not fond of the mobile suit RX-78-2 and I don’t even have any idea about its history. When I first started going for the Master Grade line, a few builders whom I have met mentioned that having any version of RX-78-2 is a must. The only available bootleg RX-78-2 back 2014 is the 2.0 version so I bought one. The design of the mobile suit was bad and it doesn’t have any outstanding features so I was puzzled why these builders want to collect such model. That’s until I decided to do a little research about the mobile suit. It was also the start where I got hooked in searching for more information about different mobile suits from Gundam Unicorn to Gundam SEED. My appreciation and respect for RX-78-2 rise up as I continue to check out more about it and the kits (RX-78-2 variants) already released.
Understanding a few about the mobile suit you like deepens your passion in building or collecting. I saw the RX-78-2 3.0 and the design was really epic. Unfortunately, there wasn’t any bootleg of the 3.0 during those years and my financial status was near poor. I was also “stepped on” by the people I am looking up to by telling me that I should quit just because I can’t handle the price of each original model kit. I guess they were right but that didn’t stop me. Of course I am still aiming for Bandai kits but the current status I have now is too big handle.
The result was bad or maybe it’s just purely a twist of fate. I don’t have a job anymore and Daban already released the 3.0! I wanted to experience and review the kit so bad. I was somewhat cheered when my friend and client ping me that I will be building two more kits – one of them is the RX-78-2 “ver Ka”. I checked the images quickly in google after receiving the message and it got me really excited.
Sorry if I got a little nostalgic on that intro, but I do want to point out that before I started reviewing kits, I lack basic knowledge about the Gundam Universe. Anyways, don’t forget to comment if I have used any wrong terminologies. I am trying my best to clean the typos but they seem to stick around a lot so don't mind them. :v
Unboxing:
I mentioned that I checked Google for some images about the kit and I saw the box art. I thought it’s wide or you could say the same box side Bandai use for their Gundam SEED kits. I was really surprised it was just the size of the Gundam Wing ver EW kits (O_O).
The side of the box features its detailing and the image of the finished model.
It was my first time taking a look at the “ver Ka” and that’s not even the shocking part – there were very few contents. I checked the front of the box and confirmed it is a Master Grade kit, yet you have 6 plastic bags with a total of 10 sprue frames. Ten?! O___O
I don’t have any ideas why Hajime Katoki made it this way when all of the “ver Ka” models I know have epic inner frame designs and gimmicks. Moving on, the box does have nice information about the One Year War. It doesn’t have any long written info but all the events with their specific date are written here. This is actually cool especially for builders like me who are still new with the wide history line of Universal Century.
The kit will also include screws that will be used on the inner frame.
You get the usual foil and clear stickers as well. Same with the Sinanju, you get a dry transfer decal sheet. I can’t figure out why they are not fixed on providing waterslide decals for the “ver Ka” models. Or maybe they just haven’t figured that out during those earlier years. There is also this some kind of tubing that will be placed on the back of the legs. I don’t know what this is called but I do want some in different colors.
Now for the construction manual, you get a nice close-up view of RX-78-2 including the same texts written on the box.
The second page features the interview with Hajime Katoki regarding “ver Ka” because this was actually the first “ver Ka” model kit (I got mind blown because I didn’t know until I search it up now while writing for this specific paragrahp O_O ).
Moving on here in Page 11, you see more of the feats of the model. I just can’t read what it says though. :v
Here’s the list of the sprue frames that I will show next..
Sprue Frames:
Plastic is really nice and the glossy finish looks great. Of course there were still some imperfections and you will notice them when you try to put them under the light. You will see these swirly lines on the surface that kind of reminds me of TTH and Daban’s older models (check the red part of the shield in the sprue frame) . Well it can’t be helped because this kit was released back 2002, so even though they [Bandai] are still on the top, they still need to step up in terms of quality.
Body Unit:
As expected from the number of sprue frames, you have below average amount of parts for the body unit.
The good side is that it’s a really smooth build – no snap fitting problems. The bad side however in my opinion is that the male pegs here are not articulated. It could have added some extra range in movement.
This model still features a hollow section in the body. This is for the Core Block which I will share later.
Head Unit:
The head also features below average amount of parts. The two vulcans here are not separated or the top head (forgot what it's called).
Then again, it was another smooth build and I love the looks of RX-78-2 even if the parts were few. It gives this fierce look that is kind of similar to the 3.0 version.
I avoided the foil stickers and used angelic green to color the eye sensors. I also used the Artline black pen so that the transparent areas are covered.
Arm Unit:
You now have at least average amount of parts for the arms. There were also extra inner frame parts but I followed the manual so that rounded part is white. I will just darken the inside area with my mechanical pencil.
It was pretty bland, not on the design, but the lack of parts provided in the kit. The rounded part I mentioned is not separated and there’s no actual inner frame for the arms. But I am fine with it because it was a smooth build.
The range of movement isn’t that great but you still have a decent bend. The manipulators are semi-articulated so you can only move a few parts. You can twist the gray section near the shoulders to give you some extra movement range.
Upper Body Unit (Shoulder Armor):
There are just 5 pieces to build here in the shoulder armor and it really is almost the same feeling when building a High Grade kit.
It was very straightforward with no other gimmicks. These pipes on top are not separated so it’s just plain white.
These are the only movable parts where you will attach the male peg from the body. It gives you a good 360-degree twist. Of course, you can only use a limited range once the arms are attached.
"Isang kinakape kape kape kape kapeng hapon!" |
Leg Unit:
The leg features above average amount of parts and the only part of the unit with a basic inner frame.
Good, smooth build here in the legs and I didn’t encounter any problems. These gray parts on the side of the legs fit just fine and they don’t pop off so easily. Each leg will use two of the screws provided in the kit.
As for the range of movement, it’s the same with the arms. The bend here is limited and you can’t bend it further or else the joints will break.
The feet are using a ball-joint design but it’s not like you can move it in a 360-degree turn even with a male-female peg. The “ankle guards” are movable so that’s a plus factor here.
Waist Unit:
You get above average amount of parts here in the waist unit.
Again, there no issues here and everything fit perfectly. It was nice they put a separate part for that “V” piece on front the waist and didn’t rely on a foil sticker.
As for the range of movement here, both front and side skirts feature a nice degree if you lift it up. Unfortunately, the back skirts don’t move and they are already fixed.
This back section of the waist allows you to mount the Hyper Bazooka when not in use.
Core Fighter:
There are two types of core fighters here and I will show you the Core Fighter in its original color. It has a nice amount of parts and that is part of the gimmicks.
I have no problem fitting them and it was really a solid build.
You can attach these landing gears if you want the Core Fighter on top a pedestal.
The Core Fighter features a nice gimmick and that is the transformation to become a Core Block. But it sucks if you will use this inside RX-78-2’s body because you still want a Core Fighter in display.
And that’s where this part comes in. These are the parts to build a fixed Core Block along with the pilot figurine that you can paint up.
It was a straightforward build and the cockpit hatch is already open.
You can push this inside the hollow space in the body and you will feel that there’s a lock that will clamp on this Core Block. Now, you have a separate Core Fighter to display along with the mobile suit. :)
Backpack Unit:
The parts here for the backpack are just below average. It looked plain for my taste but it can’t be blamed on the kit because the RX-78-2 doesn’t have any extravagant backpacks like the newer mobile suits. Well except Nu Gundam because of the odd yet unique arrangement of fin funnels. :v
Anyways, there are no problems here and you even have a simple part to show the inner frame detailing of the backpack.
The thrusters are somewhat articulate because of that clamp-like design.
Armaments:
Beam Rifle:
This weapon features below average amount of parts and Hajime Katoki should have added a few more into it.
It was another smooth build with no issues.
I am not sure what to call this lens-looking part, but it is articulated. It is movable and has at least a range of 180-degrees. Same goes for the rifle’s handle.
Hyper Bazooka:
It’s not that bad when it comes to parts separation, but it seems Hajime Katoki could have made a lot of more here.
But at least there aren’t any snap fitting issues so that’s what matters.
This lens part is also movable but unlike the beam rifle’s, it has a smaller range in movement.
Shield:
Whenever I see this type of shield, RX-78-2 is the first mobile suit that pops in my head. So you could say that this is one of the iconic armaments of the Gundam. It features simple and straightforward parts.
It was easy to build and there are no snap fitting issues. There are two connectors as well that I will show next.
These connectors give you different positions where you want to place the shield. You can do the traditional position where the shield is on the side of the arms or you can place it on the back.
Beam Sabers:
Here are the parts to build the Beam Sabers. I like the design though and it’s not the simplest Beam Saber you see in other mobile suits.
Based on the games, illustrations/artworks, and numerous videos, the Beam Saber is somewhat the only weapon where RX-78-2 is good at. We could say that Amuro is really good when fighting in close-combat.
Sometimes there are issues even if it looks easy. Thankfully, there were none so you guys can breathe easily if you have this kit. :P
The beam saber effects fit well for me as well.
Extras:
As for the extra you have these fixed manipulators.
One is for the beam rifle and the other is the common closed-palm version.
Decals:
And here I thought I will never get to see or experience using Dry Transfers again. I’m always up for the challenge and I really need to put some markings on the model because my client says so.
Even though the kit was released back 2002 that doesn’t mean all of the products were made on that particular year. But man, this decals looks really old because the quality is bad. It took me a lot of time scratching the markings. I even scratched it so hard that the adhesive tape is torn (the backing paper is safe) and the marking hasn’t transferred/stick on the surface yet. :/
I had to take a break because it was quite tiring.
It was a bit bland so I used my extra waterslide decal sheet from Nu “ver Ka.” DABAN.
Just a few more for the legs and I am done. :)
Completed Model:
Close-Up Shots:
Range of Movement:
Because of the ball-join design to connect the legs, stretching or even doing a split is quite impossible. But it was enough to make simple and neat action poses. The range of movement for the arms is limited as well but it was fine on my side.
Rest of the Shots:
Since I can’t read all those Japanese texts about “ver Ka”, please do remember that anything I have said are based on my personal thoughts or what I actually feel about the model kit. And here’s my chart for this kit’s ratings.
Plastic Quality: 9/10
As expected from Bandai even with an older kit, the plastic is great. When I cut the nubs even with an old blade, I didn’t encounter that “chalky” feeling. I may have oversand a few sections but I don’t see any problems if you do the same. The white parts have that tinge of yellow but it was fine for me. Like I mentioned above, there were still imperfections on the surface of the parts so you may want to paint the model to cover them up and return that shiny white color for RX-78-2. There were no flashes, dimples and half-molded parts which is awesome.
Assembly: 9/10
It was a fun to build kit because I have no issues to mind. It’s like a perfect kit to remove your stress or just get away from reality for a bit. The tightness of the pegs when you attach them is just right and not too loose. I think giving it a 9 is just right considering my good experience building this model.
I will have to mention about the amount of parts though. It felt like a 1/100 High Grade kit. I was really shocked that it was a Master Grade yet the challenge wasn’t even like one. There isn’t any inner frame and they started this featured on the 2.0 version.
Detailing: 9/10
It’s not as good as 3.0 but the detailing made by Hajime Katoki is stunning. Rx-78-2 looks really fierce compared to the 2.0 version. What’s even bothering me is that the 2.0 version was released way after this kit. And the looks are nowhere near “on par with the “ver Ka”. Yet when I checked the 1.5 version, it was a bit close to the “ver ka”. I still don’t understand how Bandai plans them out. O_O
But in terms of gimmicks, the 2.0 and 3.0 gives more to the consumers and that affects detailing. For example is that the Hyper Bazooka in this model is just plain gray while the one in 2.0 has white parts. Why do I need to point this out? Well it’s because I am a “straight builder” and painting the kit isn’t part of my categories. We straightbuilders appreciate more separated parts because we don’t have the skill (yet) to paint the models.
Anyways, the model looks great even without those extra separated parts. Try to find a waterslide decal sheet that suits for this one and the model will surely look great.
Articulation: 6/10
Based on the action poses I have tried, it was good, but not great in its overall performance. Because of the ball-joint pegs and fixed back skirts, I can’t do a kneeling pose. I always wanted a kneeling pose when using the Hyper Bazooka. As you have seen in the action poses, movement is limited so it’s more like a High Grade up-scaled to 1/100 and with some extra parts.
Gimmicks: 5/10
The gimmicks I have pointed out would be the cockpit hatch and the Core Fighter that can transform into a Core Block. Other than those two, I don’t think there are more gimmicks to see here. :/
Weapons: 6/10
I was choosing between 7 and 6 and then I remembered it doesn’t have that rocket launcher add-on from 2.0 or that spiky ball with chain. At least, you still have the bazooka to play with when doing some fancy action poses. :P
Extras: 5/10
My rating is like not bad but not good. You have fixed manipulators and an extra Core Block so that you can display the other one. Still, they could have added other stuff like a small action base for the Core Fighter. It was enough for the whole kit, but I still feel there is something that needs to be added in this kit.
Patience: 3/10
It was so easy to build I’m sure you can finish the kit within a day or two. I had no problems cutting the nubs and there were no issues so I didn’t consume a lot of time building one “unit” at a time.
Overall Rating: 9/10
I am still giving it a solid 9 because all three major factors got my positive reviews. Even though it was lacking some features, the “ver Ka’ is a great model kit. And for me, I think it’s a perfect model of the RX-78-2 if you just want to collect and NOT to build. Some of the consumers are not totally into Gunpla but they usually just admire the series and this is not a bad option for them - few mistakes and more fun. Of course you still need to assemble the model, but it’s so easy. It’s like a tutorial for a Master Grade kit.
I know it is Hajomie Katoki’s taste, but I am bringing this up again about the lack of parts and items. If I were to compare it with 1.5, the 1.5 gets a nicer score because of the extra weapons and not to mention a cool Open Hatch feature. RX-78-2 is a very iconic mobile suit because it is afterall the “grand daddy” of all Gundams out there. I just feel that for the first “ver Ka” model kit, this one in particular should’ve received “more” than just the things I have experienced.
Okay back to the topic, I would definitely recommend this kit for those who don’t like complex model kits but still want a RX-78-2 model. Of course you have other options if you really want to avoid the “building” part because there is the Robot Damashii version. But like I said, this kit seems like a tutorial or a basic approach in building a Master Grade. For beginners, this is a nice model kit to start on.
I know this model has a very nice overall rating, but I
will stick to the 3.0 version just because I want the challenge and the better
detailing here. So to sum it up, for beginners or casual gunpla collectors, the
“ver Ka” is the best option. But if you want to step it up or if you are already experienced enough when it comes to MG, then the 3.0 is your choice.*
Wait, why is Bandai discriminating the Zakus? I want to see a 3.0 version of Char’s Zaku II! (O_O). Having a wide selection of variants of Zaku II 2.0 isn’t the same with a RX-78-2 who have upgraded from not just “ver Ka” and v1.0 but up to v3.0. The Zaku II has been stuck with 2.0 and I think Bandai should give the mono-eye lovers something to get their hopes up.
So that’s my quick review for this kit and I will try to post another one after a few weeks. I still don’t have a job and looking for one is way harder than before. That means my Gunpla fund is in a short string. I have thought of an idea to keep my blog going even without the reviews. I am thinking of adding articles with interviews from builders whom I know. If this gets a good feedback, I will add other interviews not just from my home groups, but from other foreign Gunpla builders as well.
* - fixed a few typos
I don't have any Rx 78 but if I ever get one, would you recommend this or the 3.0?
ReplyDeleteRe: Job hunt. Been there before. Bata ka pa naman so madali ka pa makakahanap ng new work. GOod luck!
I recommend both, personal preference na lang talaga alin pipiliin mo.
DeleteIf ako ang kukuha para sa sarili ko, sa 3.0 version ako.
Yung ver. Ka kasi parang pang collector - yung tipong ayaw masyado ng complex na building route, pero gusto ng 1/100 na RX-78-2.
Detailing and challenge wise, kay 3.0 ka syempre.
about sa job hunting, hindi po ganun kadali based sa set ng skills na meron ako. :(
bro yung uni ball signo pen ba parang gundam marker lng?? permanent din sa plastic model?
ReplyDeleteHindi po.. iba pa rin yung Gundam Marker. Itong Unball signo kasi hindi naman talaga dinesenyo para sa plastic eh. Dinidiskartehan ko na lang since hindi ako nagta-topcoat ng mga binubuo ko.
DeleteNabubura pa rin sya kaya dun lang ako naglalagay sa mga parts na carved surfaces or parts na hindi agad nahahawakan ng daliri
Tanong lang pano mo na apply ng maayos yung dry transfer decals sa shoulder at knees ng maayos?
ReplyDeletescotch tape boss. medyo tricky lalo na pag curvy yung part.
Deletekapag nadikit mo na gamit ang scotch tape or any clear adhesive tape na meron ka, tsaka mo i-rub sa surface para mag transfer. then tsaka mo alisin yung tape pati yung backing paper.
Check mo rin maigi if nakadikit pa rin marking or else may maiiwan sa backing paper.